the old and the new [gernika & bilbao, spain]

After checking out and driving for a while, we stopped in Gernika (also spelled Guernica), which is the small and insignificant town that Franco bombed with Hitler's weapons during the Spanish Civil War, you know, just for the heck of it. It's an incredible tragedy and it was fascinating to see just how small and insignificant the town really was. All of the buildings are new because only about 3 buildings were left standing in the entire town after the bombing. I think it was important to know the story first and to have seen Picasso's Guernica to truly appreciate being there. There's really not much to see besides the town hall and their beloved oak tree, but this is what makes it so amazing - because its destruction was just so incredibly senseless and horrible.

Back in the bus we headed to Bilbao with a few scenic overlooks on the way, including the mouth of a river near the city of Mundaka, also known as surfer's paradise. At one time, you could ride a wave for up to 200 feet, but these waves have recently "disappeared." It was a straight drop from the mountain road to the ocean - quite dramatic and a little scary to be driving on in a coach bus. Beautiful though, especially under the descending Basque clouds - thick, gray, and back to normal.

Bilbao showed us the real Basque weather with drizzles and clouds - I would compare it to Holland... or Penn State. First we were dropped off for lunch and wondering in the old city. Once again, carnaval had brought out all the locals and the bars were packed with people drinking wine and eating pintxos. There were vendors outside selling antiques and all kinds of books and collectors' items. Small groups of men with big brass instruments were scattered around playing local music loudly and with much accompaniment from the crowd. I was smiling ear to ear.

After some cool finds in the vendors, I stopped at one of the packed bars for pintxos. I picked out three that looked good and squeezed into a space at the bar to eat. I cannot even begin to explain how delicious they were - I don't even know what they tasted like or why they were so good or even what they were, but it was the most flavorful, exciting food I have ever had. I went back and got two more and ordered a glass of wine. The bartender gave me some white wine that he explained was made in the area and very popular. The wine was refreshing and crisp, not too sweet, and a perfect partner to the pintxos. Squeezed in a crowd of damp locals with the upbeat music reverberating in the little square, I had the best meal of my life.

About to explode with joy for my love of the Basque country, we headed over to the Guggenheim Museum and continued to explode. It is easily the most intriguing building I have ever seen. It is so beautiful and modern and just interesting to look at. I escaped from the tour group and walked through the galleries, though I didn't have very much time before we had to leave for the airport.

It was painful to leave knowing that it would be a very long time before I return, if ever. The rocky coasts, the crashing waves, the blue water, the green grass, the sheep lining the hills, the old, the new - It hurts to think about, like thinking of a lost love. The Basque country will always be deep in my heart.